I saw the waves coming and got ready. I paddled my little arse off and caught a huge wave (huge for me - chest high) and nailed it. It was awesome. I wish I could remember what it was like, but all I remember was 'awesome'.
It was the morning I was to leave Costa Rica and I was about to miss my shuttle to the airport, but I had to paddle out one more time just to prove to myself that it wasn't a fluke, and I caught another perfect wave and rode it all the way into shore.
Of course, there were no pictures that day... so I have no proof. Just me and the ocean. Surfing rocks.
Here are some 'proof' pictures. Aka: bad form and I look water logged, but I'm standing up. (Which for those of you who haven't ever tried surfing - is a major undertaking.)
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